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Published on January 16th, 2012 | by Senchoo


Madbull PWS Diablo 7″ Frontset

Second in line is the PWS Diablo. This was the part that made me really want to make the Homefront-style gun. It’s short and robust and looks a little special.

Features from Madbull:

Not much info from Madbull here. They refer to the real steel PWS Diablo. But i will make a list of what it has:

  • Full metal construction
  • Intergrated Quick-Detach slingmounts
  • CNC Machined
  • Fully licensed by Primary Weapon Systems (PWS)


It comes pre-assembled in the box and looks great. In the package you also get 3 rings that goes around the QD holes on the delta-ring to hold the side and bottom rails in place. Although you do not need them, but if you want extra stability just put them on. A word of warning: Do NOT put them on until you are completly done with the installation, because they are really hard to get off again.

The color is a matte black finish not making it reflect light. There is also one in Dark Earth if that suits you better. But this front is made with the thought of having Magpul XTM rails on. So just get colored ones and you are good to go.


  1. Outer Barrel
  2. Delta Ring
  3. Barrel Nut
  4. Gasblock
  5. Mock Piston Pipe
  6. Top Rail
  7. Side and Lower Rails
  8. Flashhider
  9. PWS Wrench (not included)





As it comes pre-assemled i can feel that there is no wobble at all in the front. But i can’t be sure until i have mounted it on my gun.

The flashhider is the special compensator of a solid piece of aluminium. It’s got a little weight to it, but not to heavy. Pretty good because the rest of the front is lighter than my original CQB R.I.S (ICS).

Rails are attached with hexscrews. The 2 on the sides and the one on the bottom are fastened with 2 screws on the front. The top rail is held in place with guiding grooves on the deltaring and the mock pistontube. And is secured to the gasblock with a single hexscrew.

The outer barrel is the 7″ length and fits like a glove inside the deltaring.


Disassemble the whole thing so you have these parts: flashhider, right, left and bottom rail with their 2 hexscrews each, top rail attached to gasblock, mock pistonpipe, delta ring and barrelnut.

Check so the hop-up house “wings” fit in the outerbarrel before continueing the installation. Just sand them down to appropriate thickness.

Now take your upper, where you have already taken off the old system, and fit in the new outer barrel. There is only one way it should fit in. The two “wings” of the barrle go to the side and the side of the barrel that has the flat spacing goes on the bottom.






Next you fit the deltaring by screwing it on clockwise. Here you will notice incase the upper you are using has Tokyo Marui threading (metric) or diffrent. The brands that usually will have different types of threading is ICS and G&P. ICS new guns do have the metric threadings, but they have very high “hills” on their threading making it difficult screwing the deltaring on. Only sanding them down a little will do the trick.

The way you notice your threading is diffrent is that when you screw the deltaring on in goes on a bit and then stops completly. If the “hills” are to high you will probably not even get it to take hold at all. The way to fix this issue is to use the Madbull Deltaring Modification Tool (or equivalent) to modify the threading to fit Madbull (and most others AEG manufactuerers) deltarings.

When the deltaring is on take the barrelnut and start fastening it to hold the barrel in place. Here Madbull has a PWS wrench for tightening it without a risk to damage the barrelnut. I highly recommend it if you cant produce your own tool. It also works for all other PWS railsystems that Madbull makes. Check the alignment of the deltaring with the upper rail against the top railing of the reciver.

These next steps are to check that the deltaring isn’t screwed one to many times. Don’t skip this if you don’t know how far away the delta ring should be on you upper reciver.

After fastening it assemble the gasblock with the mock piston pipe and upper rail. Now slide it together with the deltaring. The mock paiton pipe can make it a little hard, just slide it all of again and realign it and try again. It should not take much power to put this together.






Next fasten the one siderail on the gasblock and deltaring. You maybe need to slide the gasblock forward a bit to align the screwholes from the siderail. When you find the holes screw the hexscrews down almost all the way. The siderail allows you to move the gasblock a little backwards and forwards. The reason for this is because the flashhider is the part to hold the gasblock in place. the ideal placement and alignment should look like this in the front when the gasblock is pushed back as far as possible.

As you can se the outerbarrel is a little inside the gasblock. The absolute perfect placement is when they are totally aligned in the front. But if that isn’t possible the gasblock should be infront of the puter barrel. If it’s infront of the gasblock you will have to disassemble the whole lot and screw the delta ring out 1 full turn and then repeat these steps.

When the alignment is done continue here.

Now take the gasblockassembly off. And find the hex screw inside the mock piston pipes hole in the delta ring. And screw it down so it makes contact with the reciver or goes inside the hole for the fake gaspipe. Just fasten it with mild force. If you are using bits just use your fingers. Do not use excessive force or you might break of the threading.


Put on all the other rails just as you did with the alignment. Screw them on tightly and at the same time hold them down at the deltaring so the don’t get stuck and bent.

You will notice a little wobble backwards and forward on most brands of recivers. But if you have used the wrench right then the flashhider will fix the rest.

There you are done with the installation. Just pop back in the inner barrel and hop-up housing. If the house doesn’t want to fit inside it means the “wings” on the house are to fat. Just take some sandpaper and sand them down a little. I recommend doing this in the beginning as i wrote. But if you missed it you will need to do it here.

Now you can put the 3 metal clips on OR check out the cheapmod.


There is only one cheapmod i have discovered i can do on this front. Since i usualy take apart my guns some times for tweaking and such i can’t handle things that lock things into place. And the 3 rings that are supposed to lock the rails into place are not permanent, but trying to pry them off with a metal tool could damage the rail. So instead use o-rings. They are cheap and if you put a smaller sized it will hold the rails in place just as tight as the metal-clips.

Push them down when you get them on so the secure inside the groove that the clips are supposed to rest.


My overall thoughts about this railsystem are very high. The only thing is that if you don’t secure it with a PWS wrench and the little hexscrew on the deltaring tightly enough it will start moving and become loose. But if installation is done correctly there will not be a problem for a very long time. Although MadBull warns about this problem and recommends using their RASfix it is not that big of issue unless you like trying to bend your weapon as a wet towel during games.

Other than that there isn’t much to complain on. The weight is good. It balances out the overall weight and gets the center point of gravity just above my trigger finger. And it has so many styles. I have put on a MadBull Noveske KX3 louderner and a hugh silencer. With the silencer it reminds me of a MP5SD front with rails.

This front is all about accessories. The XTM panels are perfect and it has room for a flashlight, vertical (of a more stubby kind) or angled foregrip. And if you don’t like the short CQB look, check out the other PWS railsystems MadBull carries liek the MK110 and MK112. They are put together just as this kit but are longer.

Thanks for reading and thanks MadBull for all your support!

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About the Author

Started airsoft back in 2005. Now mostly working a day job and getting into the details of gear, optics and NVG.

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